Tips, Tricks and Tips . Hello all of fishing lovers, Today's post is "Tips, Tricks and Tips ". Hopefully this short article is useful for you, all fishing lovers.
Tips, Tricks and Tips
Time to share some of the small wrinkles that I use in the various aspects of my fish.
you know that frustrating moment when you elasticating release a post or re-establishment of a connector of the elastic and springs back in the pile and you have to start over. I avoid this very simple. Pull sufficiently elastic so you can work comfortably and then bind a "cow hitch" knot around something like a Disgorger or toothpick. The tension will tighten the knot as Disgorger rests against the pole tip.
The Cow hitch knotPrevents the elastic of ping back into the post to you to work on a piece of elastic that are not under tension. You will need to recognize this as the same type of knot is used to attach a platform to a Dacron or crow's foot. When you are finished the knot slips and the elastic straighten and retreats into the post.Universal Ledger SetupTo all my ledger rods I use a system that allows me to change the method of directly lead to feeder in seconds.I bind a 4-6 inch long loop at the end of the reel line. I can thread any type ledger rig and I want to keep it in place with a bead Drennan Method. These are as a Stonfo but twice as ended can be quickly removed from the line in order to change the set-up and also makes it possible to quickly change under line.
It only takes a few seconds to turn this
for this rapid change I do a bit of surgery on my Method / Pellet / Banjo helping feeders. With a sharp knife I cut a few millimeters from the tip of the tail rubbers. This reveals a slightly larger hole through which the wire loop. If you are still experiencing problems then when you tie the course allows a tag end of a couple of inches and you can use this single thickness by means of a feeder easily thread and pull the loop and knot after.
Another advantage is that the node in the loop, as it passes through the feeder or swivel, and so will be a little help itself hook snag.Loopy?
I used to not bother with making sure that all my loops were the same size. I just tied them freehand, after everything that could make the difference?
When I discovered how free rein Seymo sizer I had been using a journal. I started in order to use the tool to create consistently sized loops and strange was a small but noticeable improvement in my results.
The Seymo LooptyerI'm not sure that the consistent sizing loops actually made an immediate difference, but I'm willing to take the opportunity to acknowledge the improved presentation. But I think that changing the general attitude. Instead of saying, "That will do," I was now taking a little more care in getting things locally. Things like fine tuning shotting. Seems like a tough job, but sometimes even on carp rigs, I now go as far as to use a Stotz 13 to get exactly what I want. Tying underline exactly the same length and plumbing up exactly are other examples of going the extra step to perfection. I think that now the fisherman who strives for this that will consistently outperform those that do not.
Recently I was told that this theory is "tosh". I accept it may be. But I know my fish better when I started to tie a consistent, neat loops. All means that or something else as well? You decide.If you have not tried Stotz then you miss what I believe to be one of the best fishing innovations of recent years.Backshot TingTo clarify, I'm referring to every shot over the float as a back shot. I know some people divided between the definition backshot and trimming shot. I can not be so complicated.I have three reasons why I spend most of my rigs backshot.Although I was aware of back shotting me I was not using it much until I had the benefits of increasing the sensitivity of the float clearly shown me one day at a drain near Boston. We were practicing for the Div. 3 National It was a windless day, clear blue sky Summer when all the water sparkled in the sun. I was using a canal rig without backshot for small roach and skimmers down the drain. The line above the float could be clearly seen to the surface tension. I was also an occasional dip that does not pull the float among knew nor pull the line through the surface. Pass off the float disappeared. I decided I needed to sink the rig on the line backshot. When I did I started to catch more frequently as previous dips translated into sail-aways. I have since added back shot most of the time. Even with carp, I believe that they can leave a bite if they feel the resistance of the line in the surface tension.
- For the sensitivity increase
- To float to help control, especially in a wind
- allow fine adjustment of the shotting
If there is a breeze or strong wind adding backshot late to sink the line of the effects of the wind. You can also use a shot in order to act as a shock absorber to really windy days and the pole tip is blown around.
I can fine-tune the shotting, allowing for different weight classes bait or simply to adapt to the way the fish bite by incorporating a number of small shot in the back shotting pattern.
So, how can I backshot? My normal set-up is to have a No.11 just above the float, set at the height of the top of the hair. I then a No.9 under the pole tip. Among these I can up to four No.12s. The 12s can be pushed down to trim the No.11 and No.9 to the shotting during the session. In high winds, I will either add another No.9, 8 or even 6 under the pole tip. This heaveier shot closer to the float so that ejected a V-shape in the conduit between the float and the post. This V will absorb a portion of the pole tip unintentional movement.
Occasionally I find that the loop on the top of a rig may become tangled around the Stonfo connector. A simple way to avoid this is to take an inch of fine bore tubing above the No.9 backshot. Once the rig on the connector is connected to slide the tube over the loop and that would prevent problems.
I think we all know the popular image of a fisherman playing a fish - rod in the air, bent with the line through the water. Is that in my opinion this is the wrong way to play a fish. Yes, you need to lift the rod to the fish net, but first you have to get the fish to place a settlement. I'm not talking small fish.
For me, the best way to keep control of a fish is to keep the rod or pole. When playing a decent fish I like to try and bury the tip as far underwater as I can. Why?
Once a fish hooked it feels is in danger. Ignore the pain debate for now. But the fish do anything to get them where it does not want to go. That place is the surface. A frightened fish will seek the sanctuary of the river or lake bed. Once there it feels more secure and compliant. As long as the soil can embrace will succumb to the pressure of the rod or elastic. The moment you try to lift to the surface will again be afraid and try and dive for cover and head out into the lake. At that time covered the tip under water again and you will find the fish will accept the pressure and come to you.
If you have not experienced it try it. It is especially noticeable in the post. Once you get down to the Topkit lift and let the fish run dip the tip and you feel the pressure off when the fish come to you and pulls the elastic. Its the same when playing a fish on a rod. When hooked to keep at a distance from the rod layer, at least level with the bank or even with the point under water. The fish is pumped injuries or easier. Again, when lifting to the net and then drop the rod running on the side and feel the pressure off. Repeat this a few times and the fish will get tired and become docile for offsetting.
Finally on this topic. I did not use a brake or clutch on a reel at least forty years. Ivan Marks advocates turn back. I copied him and have never done anything else since. By winding back I give the fish line if I do not then definitely some senseless, mindless machine. I can determine how much line takes a running fish and at what speed. Never let me down, so I think I will never change.
We all suffer line twist I'm sure that no matter how careful we are loading a reel. The way I eliminate this might look strange to the dog walkers, but it works.
I take a fishing rod and reel with a playing field (you can also do this in the bank) put the bar up as fisheries and open the bracket. Grasping the end of the line I walk 50-100 feet away from the bar, leave the line and return to the bar. I then reel in with my free hand to the voltage of the line. The grass combs the twist from the line. A bad run line you may need to repeat, but I think once is usually enough.
We've all done it, left the flask with tea / coffee in it until the following week. One way of cleaning, freshening steralising and fill it with water and put in one or two denture tablets and leave a few hours (off peak). This should return it to its former glory.
But of course I have a simple way to never have this problem. If I take a bottle (only in winter) I just fill it with hot water and take along some Oxo cubes. Hot Oxo & a couple of sausage rolls on a cold day, super!
If the bottle gets just completed a buildup of limescale with water and add some vinegar. Let & # 39; at night and rinse.
Article source: neilofthenene.blogspot.com